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Old 07-22-2010, 09:09 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yyz View Post
since a lot of that was written there have been better powders developed. one nice thing about the 1895 action being as how it is nothing more then a bigger 336 action same as a 444. is that the action will start to lock up due to bolt thrust around 45000 psi. in other words you start to get sticky extraction/locked up bolt at which point it is time to back off your load or take a good look at your load data and be sure you are right. the 45-70 has 3 levels of loads in most reloading manuals. be sure you use the right one. i don't load for a 45-70 at the moment but have been reloading for a 444 marlin for years. keep meaning to get a 45-70 but so many guns so little money.
When I was loading for MY .444 Marlin, I took the safe route.
Used 3031 all the time. Great powder that you cannot overload with.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:03 PM   #32
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with h110 i get my best performance with a slight compress load. so for me a reduced load of h110 is a waste of time. there much better choices for reduced loads. so many powders, so many loads, so little time and money.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:39 PM   #33
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All this has been fun but should really be in the reloading forum . Don't worry I don't load reduced loads with H110 their full power. For lighter loads witch I do shoot once in a while (really I do 5Knives), I use Unique.
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:12 PM   #34
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The main reason I use 2400 and Unique for most of my loading is cost I can get the most out of a can of powder using them two powders for most all of my reloading chores. Only other load I use 4064 for my 6.5 Swede Mauser and condom bullets.
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Old 07-22-2010, 01:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
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All this has been fun but should really be in the reloading forum . Don't worry I don't load reduced loads with H110 their full power. For lighter loads witch I do shoot once in a while (really I do 5Knives), I use Unique.
Rew is right of course, there's some interesting material being presented here and if we leave it in the Rifle forum it will only be harder to find and retrieve later.

Think it takes Pogo or Aviator to move it , I'll ask them.

Regsrds,
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:10 PM   #36
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When I was loading for MY .444 Marlin, I took the safe route.
Used 3031 all the time. Great powder that you cannot overload with.
I used to use 3031 with my cast loads but I switched to 2400 just because I found out I could duplicate the loads with a lot less powder. For me that was important but I do have to say 3031 is a fine powder.
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Old 07-22-2010, 06:42 PM   #37
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Fired my buddy's Marlin .45-70 years ago, Tang sights and factory loads were fun, she's a thumper!! I've only seen the stainless versions at recent gunshows though.
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Old 07-23-2010, 08:17 AM   #38
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No you may not!

Bummer I know, I wanted to share the "How to blow up an average house with just a 10 pound bag of lour, an empty tunafish can and a home made detonator!" Fat Chance!

Sometimes life is just SO unfair!



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Feel free to PM me with the recipe...
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Old 07-23-2010, 12:55 PM   #39
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Ah the old dust explosion, guess I'll have to keep that to myself too, darn.
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:13 PM   #40
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Ah the old dust explosion, guess I'll have to keep that to myself too, darn.
Lots of "Grain Grinding" mills that wish they could do the same.
Lost a good friend to a flour mill "incident!"
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:32 PM   #41
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I was wondering if that was what you were talking about. I worked in the pharmaceutical field and we had similar incidents when the grounding straps fell off of our panborn system.

Luckily this happened over the summer when there is only a skeleton crew working. The explosion blew windows out of the warehouse and lifted the flat roof almost six inches. The warehouse was 140X400 with an 18 foot ceiling.

Just the right amount of dust and a spark..and...boom
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Old 07-23-2010, 11:52 PM   #42
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a dust explosion, if properly done, is very devastating. saw a box car one time that had a flour dust explosion that looked like a tanker after wards.
youtube of a sawdust canon which is based on the dust explosion principle

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Old 07-24-2010, 12:19 AM   #43
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Helped with an arson investigation of a trailer factory fire, in the middle 70s.
Report was that the welders started a fire, up high, on the beams.
The place had never had a "Blow Down" of the dust, in ten years.
Building was about 300 feet long.
20 minutes after ignition the roof was caving in from the heat of the flames.
It was a "Slow Explosion" and uncontrolable.
Instant "Roll Over" of flames, dust balls of flame falling to lower material.

Within two hours the entire sturcture was flat on the concret floor.

Hot enough that steel girders ALL collapsed.
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Old 07-24-2010, 01:55 AM   #44
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I'm convinced any kind of organic dust ia an expolosive. Lost the local co-op grain mill when I was working on my uncles farm ... 12 miles away! And was sure loud enough to get our attention, nothing left by the time we got into town

Blowd her up real good!

But if you've ever experienced a Coal Dust explosion ... oh my ...

Most folks figured the Luftwafe bombers had penetrated as far as WI.

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Old 08-03-2010, 07:50 PM   #45
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Got this on the Cast Boolit forum after I posted about using 2400.

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2400 has a burn rate that is in the same neighbourhood as FFg. For the same bullet weight and velocity, it will produce approximately the same peak pressure. So, if a fellow is shooting a vintage Winchester 1886 or 100-year old Marlin 1895, 2400 is safe to use for the same ballistics produced by black powder. Modern firearms will be stronger and can take higher pressures/more 2400/higher velocities with 2400. For fellows shooting 100 year-old guns, you may find that 2400 bumps a soft cast bullet up sweetly to give excellent accuracy, as opposed to the slower burning IMR 3031.
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