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11-15-2014, 08:11 AM | #1 |
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Aftermarket muzzlebrake for Mosin
Anyone find a vendor that has a decent muzzlebrake for the Mosin that's of solid construction?
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11-15-2014, 09:22 AM | #2 |
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You must have a Carbine, lots of flash - I don't know if it would work but you might see if a 30 cal. Ruger ranch rifle clamp on style would work. Centerfire Systems has them for around $17.00 + S/H
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11-15-2014, 02:23 PM | #3 |
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You might want to check with this company. I can't vouch for them though.
http://mosinplus.com/Home_Page.php
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11-16-2014, 08:06 AM | #4 |
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Thanks fellas.
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11-23-2014, 07:43 AM | #5 |
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Snagged the one from Mosinplus, might test her out this week. I'll let y'all know.
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11-25-2014, 07:08 AM | #6 |
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The muzzlebrake worked like a champ. Coulda fired 60 rds or more. The millet red dot won't hold shit for a zero though.......back to the drawing board......at least the Garand didn't dissapoint.
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12-27-2014, 03:23 PM | #7 |
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I've always been leery of those damn "clamp on" , pin on style breaks myself. I've tried several over the years and every one failed,or was showing signs of doing so,some just quicker than others.
I had one on a SKS that came loose and that Fucker,,, scared the Billy Jesus outa me when a round clipped it and ripped it right off, never found it. Shit went flying every which a way and the break tore a pretty damn deep gouge on the sight and end of the barrel. I got a bit peppered but not bad and didn't get hurt,,,,other than,,, ALL THE SHIT STAINS IN MY DRAWS !!! I had a AK one that loosened up too by bending the cheap pins that came with it. But that just shaved a bit of bullet and I noticed it right off. So Needless to say I don't have much good to say about them. Honestly,, just thread the fucking barrel and get it over with and you'll get better results because the break is true and solidly mounted IMHO, and will be a hell of allot safer in the long run. I've seen others on other peoples guns that cut a grove in the back of the font sight post/mount a couple times, and you could see definite signs of stress/ metal fatigue and some peeing on the break itself from it sliding around. Unless both surfaces are at the very least, knurled and fit perfect,,there going ta move. 2nd best would be to silver solder it on after its clamped down and running a tight rod put down the barrel through the break . Just to be sure the break is true to the bore first. But that's just my opinions and experience I've had with them anyhoo |
12-30-2014, 06:08 PM | #8 |
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Like I always say "if you don't like the kick don't stand behind the mule."
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01-14-2015, 04:49 PM | #9 |
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I like the kick, but I would like to fire it all day.....
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01-14-2015, 07:33 PM | #10 |
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keep me posted on how the brake works!
.... and I shot one of those screw around the sight post SKS brakes...it went about 15 feet down range at Saddle Creek....didn't even notice. |
04-13-2015, 04:34 PM | #11 |
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Here is a simple fix
Have you tried a recoil pad? Here's a link to one from walmart. T.F.E & KISS are the important concepts. So is $$$ & time.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Limbsaver-...31?type=search This one is medium, but they have a small and a large size as well. Be sure to carefully measure your stock. East bloc guns can have a shorter length of pull than what we are used to in America. Making it longer is another advantage over a muzzle break. I use one on my M76. It makes the 8mm a pleasure to shoot, even the hot loaded turkish stuff, not exactly a pussy cat with that however. It's still a bit more snappy than my SA-93 of course. If the gun is used for self defense, the recoil pad might keep you from using the rifle butt as effectively. On the other hand, the bayonet won't be affected which is a plus. It's not the power of the bullet that causes the problem. It's that hard as hell steel plate, ouch!! Once you install it, it'll be no different than a 308 recoil. |
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