Casting Bullets, what's involved?

5knives · 04-06-2006, 03:59 PM

Most of my casting has been for Black Powder, pretty cheap and simple. Pure lead, a mold, a lead pot or Lee pot and a ladle is about it.

How about some of you folks with real bullet casting experience sharing some tips and tricks?

What equipment, where to get material, what's the process?

Thanks in Advance.

Be Safe.

Pogo · 04-06-2006, 04:28 PM

I go to a local tire store and they give me all I want for free. I usually get about two 5 gallon mud buckets full at a time. Now, that's a lot of lead. I melt it down into ingots on a camping stove, and at that time separate out almost all of the crap. Then I have a Lyman casting furnace I use for casting my bullets. I have many different bullet molds, most of them are Lyman. I don't care for Lee aluminum molds myself.

I have a Star sizer/lubricator that I have had for many years. It's considered the Cadillac of sizers. I got it in a good swap from a police department training officer. It was broke, and I swapped him some Mauser parts worth about $30 at the time. It cost me about $20 for new parts to fix it up.

I shoot a lot of cast bullets. All of my Cowboy Action Shooting is done with cast bullets. And that helps me save money while I'm competing. The 45/70 and .45 Long Colt bullets aren't cheap if you have to buy them.

AKWARRIOR · 04-06-2006, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pogo

I go to a local tire store and they give me all I want for free. I usually get about two 5 gallon mud buckets full at a time. Now, that's a lot of lead. I melt it down into ingots on a camping stove, and at that time separate out almost all of the crap.

How is that done?

Do you just spoon off all the crud that comes to the surface or burn it off?

Pogo · 04-06-2006, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKWARRIOR

How is that done?

Do you just spoon off all the crud that comes to the surface or burn it off?

I have a big spoon on the end of a piece of wood, and like you said I just skim it off.

Rew · 04-06-2006, 05:27 PM

Pogo is right (except for the Lee mold part

) but when you are skimming the top of the metal be careful that you don't remove any antimony or tin. Both are helpful in the casting process. Stir the metal often, you want the alloy componants to mix well. Welders gloves and goggles are a right good idea.

Rew · 04-06-2006, 05:28 PM

HEHE there is a broken heart in the middle of gl oves.

Pogo · 04-06-2006, 05:32 PM

One thing I didn't mention is fluxing the metal. I like Marvelux bullet casting flux that I get from Brownells. Some people use various other fluxes, but a lb of Marvelux will do a bunch of bullets. It really does a good job.

Of course others are satisfied with whatever they use.

Pogo · 04-06-2006, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rew

HEHE there is a broken heart in the middle of gl oves.

Yeah, I use welders gl oves too.

Gus · 04-06-2006, 07:40 PM

I don’t cast bullets but my uncle that taught me to hand load does. He always mixes tin with the lead to make a harder bullet. I’m not sure what the ratio of the lead tin mix is; he learned his recipe trial and error. I do know harder casting are less likely to foul the rifling and are more accurate in my uncles opinion.

He uses wheel weights same as pogo

Pogo · 04-06-2006, 08:04 PM

Wheel weights are a pretty good alloy as is. And you are right Gus, pure lead is too soft for any kind of bullets other than for muzzleloaders.

5knives · 04-06-2006, 10:18 PM

Pogo,

Are all wheel weights the same or are there certain types or brands to look for?

Or some to avoid?

Thanks,

Cephus · 04-06-2006, 10:26 PM

pretty much the same if ya Burnell test them they come out about 11
but if ya drop them in cold water right from the mold they get to be about 15-17 this makes them harder and when ya use them in a rifle they don't lead the barrel as much . A couple of jacketed rounds will remove most of it and then ya can clean as usual !!!
Sorry to jump in late ,Brunell[sp] is kinda like Rockwell only for softer metals !!!

5knives · 04-06-2006, 10:52 PM

Thank You Cephus,

I'm familiar with the Brinnell Tests, I didn't know you could get an alloy that hard that easily. sounds good.

Once upon a time, I used the tools at the local P.D for most of my reloading and they got all the old linotype metal they wanted form a large printing company. I don't recall they mixed anything in it, but it made very good bullets for .38 and .357.

Thanks for the information,

Be Safe,

wc846 · 04-06-2006, 11:17 PM

I used to make all my handgun bullets until the guy down the road started a bullet making business. not worth the trouble anymore for me..I kind of like it when the nurse at work don't bother me anymore telling me about the elevated lead levels in my blood.. make sure you have really good ventilation when ya make them..

9teen11 · 04-07-2006, 06:45 AM

When you are working the lead make sure you are in a well ventilated area, the fumes can give you lead poisioning a lot quicker than handling it ever will.

I cast thousands upon thousands upon thousands of 45 200gn SWC BB when I was into it.

My doctor was doing some blood work on me & so I asked if he would also check for lead.

I came back 14 times higher than the acceptable max for industry according to the WHO. So he told me.

Id always been careful with fumes & worked outside with an exhaust fan to redirect the fumes but still my count was very high.

I used a RCBS pro melt, a RCBS lube sizer. SAECO molds & home made allox & bees wax lube.

That gear paid for itself over & over many times. I also had the benefit of a constant supply uniform projectiles.

Saeco also had a hardness tester for the lead but I never worried too much about that so long as I was using the wheel weights.

04-06-2006, 03:59 PM	#1
5knives KaBoom Kontrol Modulator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Colorado, Western Slope Posts: 16,229	Casting Bullets, what's involved? Most of my casting has been for Black Powder, pretty cheap and simple. Pure lead, a mold, a lead pot or Lee pot and a ladle is about it. How about some of you folks with real bullet casting experience sharing some tips and tricks? What equipment, where to get material, what's the process? Thanks in Advance. Be Safe.

04-06-2006, 04:28 PM	#2
Pogo Mystic Knight of the Sea Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: The Great Swamp Posts: 81,969	I go to a local tire store and they give me all I want for free. I usually get about two 5 gallon mud buckets full at a time. Now, that's a lot of lead. I melt it down into ingots on a camping stove, and at that time separate out almost all of the crap. Then I have a Lyman casting furnace I use for casting my bullets. I have many different bullet molds, most of them are Lyman. I don't care for Lee aluminum molds myself. I have a Star sizer/lubricator that I have had for many years. It's considered the Cadillac of sizers. I got it in a good swap from a police department training officer. It was broke, and I swapped him some Mauser parts worth about $30 at the time. It cost me about $20 for new parts to fix it up. I shoot a lot of cast bullets. All of my Cowboy Action Shooting is done with cast bullets. And that helps me save money while I'm competing. The 45/70 and .45 Long Colt bullets aren't cheap if you have to buy them. __________________ .................................................. ....................................… *We have met the enemy, and he is us!*

04-06-2006, 10:26 PM	#12
Cephus The OLD COOT one and only Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Glovers Gap WV Posts: 10,277	pretty much the same if ya Burnell test them they come out about 11 but if ya drop them in cold water right from the mold they get to be about 15-17 this makes them harder and when ya use them in a rifle they don't lead the barrel as much . A couple of jacketed rounds will remove most of it and then ya can clean as usual !!! Sorry to jump in late ,Brunell[sp] is kinda like Rockwell only for softer metals !!! __________________ FREEDOM ONLY ACCEPTS ONE PRICE AND THAT IS BLOOD

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04-06-2006, 05:27 PM	#5
Rew Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Colorado Posts: 9,710	Pogo is right (except for the Lee mold part ) but when you are skimming the top of the metal be careful that you don't remove any antimony or tin. Both are helpful in the casting process. Stir the metal often, you want the alloy componants to mix well. Welders gloves and goggles are a right good idea.

04-06-2006, 05:28 PM	#6
Rew Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Colorado Posts: 9,710	HEHE there is a broken heart in the middle of gl oves.

04-06-2006, 05:32 PM	#7
Pogo Mystic Knight of the Sea Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: The Great Swamp Posts: 81,969	One thing I didn't mention is fluxing the metal. I like Marvelux bullet casting flux that I get from Brownells. Some people use various other fluxes, but a lb of Marvelux will do a bunch of bullets. It really does a good job. Of course others are satisfied with whatever they use.

04-06-2006, 07:40 PM	#9
Gus Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Arizona Posts: 66,849	I don’t cast bullets but my uncle that taught me to hand load does. He always mixes tin with the lead to make a harder bullet. I’m not sure what the ratio of the lead tin mix is; he learned his recipe trial and error. I do know harder casting are less likely to foul the rifling and are more accurate in my uncles opinion. He uses wheel weights same as pogo

04-06-2006, 08:04 PM	#10
Pogo Mystic Knight of the Sea Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: The Great Swamp Posts: 81,969	Wheel weights are a pretty good alloy as is. And you are right Gus, pure lead is too soft for any kind of bullets other than for muzzleloaders.

04-06-2006, 10:18 PM	#11
5knives KaBoom Kontrol Modulator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Colorado, Western Slope Posts: 16,229	Pogo, Are all wheel weights the same or are there certain types or brands to look for? Or some to avoid? Thanks,

04-06-2006, 10:52 PM	#13
5knives KaBoom Kontrol Modulator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Colorado, Western Slope Posts: 16,229	Thank You Cephus, I'm familiar with the Brinnell Tests, I didn't know you could get an alloy that hard that easily. sounds good. Once upon a time, I used the tools at the local P.D for most of my reloading and they got all the old linotype metal they wanted form a large printing company. I don't recall they mixed anything in it, but it made very good bullets for .38 and .357. Thanks for the information, Be Safe,

04-06-2006, 11:17 PM	#14
wc846 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: 50 mi east of picsburg Posts: 1,418	I used to make all my handgun bullets until the guy down the road started a bullet making business. not worth the trouble anymore for me..I kind of like it when the nurse at work don't bother me anymore telling me about the elevated lead levels in my blood.. make sure you have really good ventilation when ya make them..

04-07-2006, 06:45 AM	#15
9teen11 PERMANENTLY BANNED Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,080	When you are working the lead make sure you are in a well ventilated area, the fumes can give you lead poisioning a lot quicker than handling it ever will. I cast thousands upon thousands upon thousands of 45 200gn SWC BB when I was into it. My doctor was doing some blood work on me & so I asked if he would also check for lead. I came back 14 times higher than the acceptable max for industry according to the WHO. So he told me. Id always been careful with fumes & worked outside with an exhaust fan to redirect the fumes but still my count was very high. I used a RCBS pro melt, a RCBS lube sizer. SAECO molds & home made allox & bees wax lube. That gear paid for itself over & over many times. I also had the benefit of a constant supply uniform projectiles. Saeco also had a hardness tester for the lead but I never worried too much about that so long as I was using the wheel weights.