Case Life

5knives · 03-29-2006, 07:53 PM

What kind of case life do you get?

What to you do to get maximum life out of your cases?

How often do you measure?

How often to you trim?

Do you anneal cases?

Any brand of cases work especially well, or especially poorly for you!

Please Specify Cartridge, case brand, bullet and powder and velocity measured or estimated ....

BUT ...... DO NOT LIST POWDER CHARGES!

Simply say "low, medium or high, from_______ reloading Manual ____ edition.

Thank you for your comments!

Regards,

Pogo · 03-29-2006, 08:35 PM

I don't bother retrimming my cases after the first time unless I'm making some rounds for target matches. I don't keep records of how many reloads I get from each case, but I'd guess at least 30-40. Maybe more

I've really taken a liking to Starline cases. And, I've used Winchester cases for years.

scheistermeister · 03-29-2006, 08:40 PM

wow, i didnt know you could so much life out of a case. does that include ones that have been dented?

Pogo · 03-29-2006, 08:43 PM

They will straighten out when you size them, unless they have been really smashed.

Rew · 03-29-2006, 09:47 PM

Depends a lot on the caliber. I get longer case life from 45ACP (30-50) loads than I do from 9mm. (My .45acp is a revolver). Different chamber pressure involved. 30-30 lasts longer than 30-06 with hunting loads. I'll trim rifle cases after 3 reloadings, revolver cases such as the .357 with hunting loads every 5th loading. Most auto pistol cases, I've never had to trim.

Pogo · 03-29-2006, 10:23 PM

That's true about hunting loads and any full power loads. I almost always shoot reduced power loads for target shooting or competition. That gives considerably more longevity to the cases. And you don't need a magnum load to punch a hole in a piece of paper or to sound off on a metal target.

magnus392 · 03-29-2006, 11:12 PM

I think I need to get into reloading...this buck a shot garbage for my .300winmag is a joke!

HorseSoldier176 · 03-30-2006, 01:25 AM

I like military brass best. It is a bit of a pain the first time, because of the crimp on the primer pocket. RCBS is on a first name basis with me, because I break so many decapping stems for .30-06, 7.62 NATO, and other military calibres, but once you swage the pocket, they are the best brass. Mil Spec tends to be higher quality, than commercial. Most commercial brass is manufactured on the theory that you will fire it once with the factory load, and throw it away. I use alot of Winchester component brass. I don't know that it is really any better than other makers of components, but I get it in huge bulk lots, and it is fairly cheap that way. As to loads, I load to each individual weapon. As an example, I have six M-1 Garands, none of them use the exact same load. Now, keep in mind I am going for optimum, not general performance. I do make general loads, and they perform well in all six, but I also know what load is best for each weapon. One of the six is a D model, and that only gets 200 grain HPBT bullets. Most of my Garands get 175 grain HPBT, which is the closest I can come to a mil spec load (Mil Spec for .30-06 is 173 grain BT FMJ) Now when I load 7.62 NATO, I use the Winchester 147 grain BT FMJ bullet, because that is exactly the same as the mil spec bullet for 7.62 NATO. Because the 5.56 Nato has undergone several incarnations, again you need to load to the weapon. My early Colt SP 1, likes 55 grain FMJ's, and 68 grain BTHP's. If I go heavier than 68, she pukes them out. My Bushmaster A4 doesn't like 55 gr FMJ's at all, is OK with 68's, but just loves 78 grain BTHP's. Point being each rifle is unique, you need to figure out what it likes. Pistols are far less finicky, but then the distance you are firing over is much smaller as well. As to propellants, I use the books as a guideline. I never exceed the max load. Not so much for my safety, as much for my weapons safety. I have had two weapons blow up on me in my life so far, and that was three too many. Both where military weapons, and the ammo was factory. I have never had any problems with my own reloads. Now as to specific propellants, you need to determine what your goal is. When I selected my propellants, I looked at several books, and choose the powder that will give me good performance over the greatest range of bullet weights, and calibres. For almost all of my .30 cal weapons, I use Accurate 4064. It is a good intermediate powder, and I get excellant performance from all my .30 cal weapons, except .30 Carbine. Because of the small cartridge, and bullet weight, I use what is generally considered a pistol powder, Hodgdon H-110. Almost all my pistols are loaded with Accurate #2, and that is everything from 7.62 Tokerev, right up through .45 ACP. The only exception is .45 LC, there I use Trail Boss. I also use Trail Boss in my .45-70, both rifle, and carbine loads. As to smaller rifles, like 5.56, and some others, I use either Reloader #7, or #15. Part of my goal in selecting propellants was to minimize my logistical issues, so I figured out what powder would give me acceptable performance over the widest range of loads. Not everyone is concearned with multiple calibres, and loads to consider, so you need to figure out what your goal is.

I have two case trimmers, and use them often, but then I process around a thousand cases a week. I have my brass broken into lots, and cases from a lot stay together. I will randomly mic about five cases from a lot, if they are all within tolerence, I just continue. If only one, or two are out, I will pull another random 20, and mic them. If three, or more of the first five are long, then that whole lot gets trimmed. Not every round will actually get a shave, but I will set the trimmer to the desired length, and everything goes through, just in case. The other thing, if you fire high pressure loads, you want to mic the neck thickness. Most good manuals will give max, and min neck thickness. Annealing is pretty easy. I have a big cake pan, fill it about half way with water, stand my cases up, and heat the neck with a small butane torch, until it is nice and red, then knock it over into the water. You are now annealed. This is especially important for brass that is more than ten years old. If you get a batch of brass, and when you start to decap them, you get split necks, stop, and anneal. It is far less aggravating to anneal, than it is to throw away split cases. Hope this helps!!

Horse

03-29-2006, 07:53 PM	#1
5knives KaBoom Kontrol Modulator Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Colorado, Western Slope Posts: 16,229	Case Life What kind of case life do you get? What to you do to get maximum life out of your cases? How often do you measure? How often to you trim? Do you anneal cases? Any brand of cases work especially well, or especially poorly for you! Please Specify Cartridge, case brand, bullet and powder and velocity measured or estimated .... BUT ...... DO NOT LIST POWDER CHARGES! Simply say "low, medium or high, from_______ reloading Manual ____ edition. Thank you for your comments! Regards,

03-29-2006, 08:35 PM	#2
Pogo Mystic Knight of the Sea Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: The Great Swamp Posts: 81,969	I don't bother retrimming my cases after the first time unless I'm making some rounds for target matches. I don't keep records of how many reloads I get from each case, but I'd guess at least 30-40. Maybe more I've really taken a liking to Starline cases. And, I've used Winchester cases for years. __________________ .................................................. ....................................… *We have met the enemy, and he is us!*

03-29-2006, 08:40 PM	#3
scheistermeister Throbbing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,727	wow, i didnt know you could so much life out of a case. does that include ones that have been dented?

03-29-2006, 08:43 PM	#4
Pogo Mystic Knight of the Sea Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: The Great Swamp Posts: 81,969	They will straighten out when you size them, unless they have been really smashed.

03-29-2006, 09:47 PM	#5
Rew Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Colorado Posts: 9,710	Depends a lot on the caliber. I get longer case life from 45ACP (30-50) loads than I do from 9mm. (My .45acp is a revolver). Different chamber pressure involved. 30-30 lasts longer than 30-06 with hunting loads. I'll trim rifle cases after 3 reloadings, revolver cases such as the .357 with hunting loads every 5th loading. Most auto pistol cases, I've never had to trim.

03-29-2006, 10:23 PM	#6
Pogo Mystic Knight of the Sea Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: The Great Swamp Posts: 81,969	That's true about hunting loads and any full power loads. I almost always shoot reduced power loads for target shooting or competition. That gives considerably more longevity to the cases. And you don't need a magnum load to punch a hole in a piece of paper or to sound off on a metal target.

03-29-2006, 11:12 PM	#7
magnus392 Thick Skulled Southerner Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: NETX Posts: 1,196	I think I need to get into reloading...this buck a shot garbage for my .300winmag is a joke! __________________ "Its all over but the cryin'!" Moonshiner Are You lookin' at Muh Mun-Kee?

03-30-2006, 01:25 AM	#8
HorseSoldier176 Retired Soldier Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: South Central PA Posts: 14,148	I like military brass best. It is a bit of a pain the first time, because of the crimp on the primer pocket. RCBS is on a first name basis with me, because I break so many decapping stems for .30-06, 7.62 NATO, and other military calibres, but once you swage the pocket, they are the best brass. Mil Spec tends to be higher quality, than commercial. Most commercial brass is manufactured on the theory that you will fire it once with the factory load, and throw it away. I use alot of Winchester component brass. I don't know that it is really any better than other makers of components, but I get it in huge bulk lots, and it is fairly cheap that way. As to loads, I load to each individual weapon. As an example, I have six M-1 Garands, none of them use the exact same load. Now, keep in mind I am going for optimum, not general performance. I do make general loads, and they perform well in all six, but I also know what load is best for each weapon. One of the six is a D model, and that only gets 200 grain HPBT bullets. Most of my Garands get 175 grain HPBT, which is the closest I can come to a mil spec load (Mil Spec for .30-06 is 173 grain BT FMJ) Now when I load 7.62 NATO, I use the Winchester 147 grain BT FMJ bullet, because that is exactly the same as the mil spec bullet for 7.62 NATO. Because the 5.56 Nato has undergone several incarnations, again you need to load to the weapon. My early Colt SP 1, likes 55 grain FMJ's, and 68 grain BTHP's. If I go heavier than 68, she pukes them out. My Bushmaster A4 doesn't like 55 gr FMJ's at all, is OK with 68's, but just loves 78 grain BTHP's. Point being each rifle is unique, you need to figure out what it likes. Pistols are far less finicky, but then the distance you are firing over is much smaller as well. As to propellants, I use the books as a guideline. I never exceed the max load. Not so much for my safety, as much for my weapons safety. I have had two weapons blow up on me in my life so far, and that was three too many. Both where military weapons, and the ammo was factory. I have never had any problems with my own reloads. Now as to specific propellants, you need to determine what your goal is. When I selected my propellants, I looked at several books, and choose the powder that will give me good performance over the greatest range of bullet weights, and calibres. For almost all of my .30 cal weapons, I use Accurate 4064. It is a good intermediate powder, and I get excellant performance from all my .30 cal weapons, except .30 Carbine. Because of the small cartridge, and bullet weight, I use what is generally considered a pistol powder, Hodgdon H-110. Almost all my pistols are loaded with Accurate #2, and that is everything from 7.62 Tokerev, right up through .45 ACP. The only exception is .45 LC, there I use Trail Boss. I also use Trail Boss in my .45-70, both rifle, and carbine loads. As to smaller rifles, like 5.56, and some others, I use either Reloader #7, or #15. Part of my goal in selecting propellants was to minimize my logistical issues, so I figured out what powder would give me acceptable performance over the widest range of loads. Not everyone is concearned with multiple calibres, and loads to consider, so you need to figure out what your goal is. I have two case trimmers, and use them often, but then I process around a thousand cases a week. I have my brass broken into lots, and cases from a lot stay together. I will randomly mic about five cases from a lot, if they are all within tolerence, I just continue. If only one, or two are out, I will pull another random 20, and mic them. If three, or more of the first five are long, then that whole lot gets trimmed. Not every round will actually get a shave, but I will set the trimmer to the desired length, and everything goes through, just in case. The other thing, if you fire high pressure loads, you want to mic the neck thickness. Most good manuals will give max, and min neck thickness. Annealing is pretty easy. I have a big cake pan, fill it about half way with water, stand my cases up, and heat the neck with a small butane torch, until it is nice and red, then knock it over into the water. You are now annealed. This is especially important for brass that is more than ten years old. If you get a batch of brass, and when you start to decap them, you get split necks, stop, and anneal. It is far less aggravating to anneal, than it is to throw away split cases. Hope this helps!! Horse